Gooder Kebab, a fully vegan, and almost totally gluten-free kebab shop has opened on St James’ Street, Brighton.
We trundled east of the pier to get our fill of pitta, tzatziki, and all that good stuff on Monday 1 November, and can safely say that Gooder Kebab is IN-CRED-UH-BLE.
Gluten intolerance, or gluten sensitivity can be a barrier for many vegans. Seitan is a great chicken substitute, and an incredibly popular one at that. However, it is,by nature, incredibly gluten-heavy, and if you don’t have the stomach for it, can leave you feeling like a beached whale.
The good news is all of Gooder Kebab’s meat substitutes are naturally gluten-free, including its this-Isn’t chicken shawarma and shish.
Alongside these two kebab shop staples Gooder has developed an absolutely staggeringly good lamb kofte creation, and turned marinated mushrooms into doner ‘meat’.
The four meat staples can be served in warps, pitas, atop couscous, or piled on chips (naturally).
While the meat substitutes will invariably steal the show, a special mention must go out to our trusty friend, the carbohydrates.
The Gooder Kebab wraps are wonderful and light, with just the right amount of resistance, the couscous is a beautiful mixture of soft airiness and fresh veg, and the chips are dark and crunchy in all the right places.
The crown jewel, however, is the pitta breads. These are the kind of pitta breads that make you realise supermarkets have been mugging us off for decades.
These are the type of pitta breads you could eat with nothing else but a drizzle of olive oil and a crack of salt.
These are the type of pitta bread that your fucking dreams are made of. Charred on the outside, somehow doughy and pillowy, yet light and pliable.
They are, for lack of a better phrase, a total joy to shove in your mouth.
All the mains come with the kebab shop classics – tzatziki, hummus, pickled cabbage, pickled peppers, lettuce, tomatoes, ya know, the good stuff.
The freshness of all the above never detracts from the main event, but it is all totally necessary to balance the richness.
Speaking of richness, Gooder Kebab have gone IN on their own custom sauces: Blue cheese, bloody mary ketchup, homemade hot sauce, baconnaise, and a perplexing yet wonderful signature sauce that is part cheesy, part spicy, and totally delicious.
Gooder Kebab has opened up in the old Grubbs shop, and as a little nod to the Brighton institution they have put their twist on the classic Malaysian burger, loading up a Beyond Meat patty with cheeze, peanut butter, chilli marmalade and candied bacon.
If you never got to tuck into one of these bad lads when you ate meat, now is the chance. It’s just so wild that it works perfectly.
And, should you be feeling like a dweeb, you can also get classic, blue cheeze, and bacconaise, cheeseburgers.
Whilst you can obviously whip into Gooder for a meat and chips, cover it in garlic mayo and be on your way, this is not just your average joint. Huge swathes of the menu have been developed in house by head chefs Antonis and Tom.
Born and raised in Greece, and a veteran of the Brighton food scene, the duo have helped to create authentic Greek fare in vegan form, something that elevates the whole menu far above your typical kebab shop.
The pittas are not your bullshit Tesco nonsense, the tzatziki is as close as it gets to its dairy-laden counterpart, and the kofte is an act of culinary wizardry. For real, in my younger years I chomped down my fair share of lamb kofte wraps around Staines, and my god, this is the closest I’ve ever come since.
Gooder Kebab is open on St James Street right the hell now, and is live on all the normal delivery apps late into the night – meaning that Brighton now has a bonafide, proper, nailed on, vegan kebab joint that still serves past 10pm.